Gold leafing (also called gilding) a frame is a careful, step-by-step process. Traditionally it is done with water gilding or oil gilding, depending on the desired finish and how much durability is needed. Here’s a clear outline:

Table of Contents

Materials You’ll Need

Gold leaf sheets (real or imitation)
Gilder’s cushion (or smooth surface to cut leaf)
Gilder’s knife & brush (or soft makeup brush for small jobs)
Size (adhesive) — either oil size or water-based size
Gesso (if preparing raw wood)
Red or yellow bole (clay undercoat, optional, for depth/warmth)
Sealer (shellac or acrylic sealer)
Burnishing tool (agate stone, optional, for water gilding)
Soft cotton cloth

Step 1. Prepare the Frame

Clean the frame thoroughly — dust and oils prevent adhesion.
If raw wood: apply gesso layers, sand smooth, then apply bole if using water gilding.
If previously finished: sand lightly and seal the surface with a primer or sealer.

Step 2. Apply Adhesive (Size)

For oil gilding: Brush on thin, even layer of oil size. Wait until it reaches the correct “tack” (slightly sticky but not wet). This can take 1–3 hours depending on the product.
For water gilding: Wet the bole surface with water/alcohol mix, then apply leaf while damp.

Step 3. Lay the Gold Leaf

Carefully lift the leaf with a gilder’s tip (static from brushing across your hair helps).
Lay leaf gently onto tacky size or wet bole.
Overlap edges slightly — gaps can be filled with small scraps later.
Lightly press down with a soft brush or cotton to smooth air bubbles.

Step 4. Burnish or Seal

For water gilding: Once dry, polish with an agate burnisher to create a mirror shine.
For oil gilding: Leave matte or lightly smooth; you cannot high-burnish.
Seal with shellac, varnish, or protective coating if frame will be handled often.

Step 5. Touch Up & Finish

Patch gaps with spare leaf.
Clean gently with cotton cloth.
Optionally add antiquing glaze or patina for an aged look.

Step-by-Step Guide

Here’s a step-by-step DIY guide for gold leafing a frame that you can follow at home. I’ll keep it practical, clear, and detailed enough for a first-time gilder:

DIY Guide: How to Gold Leaf a Frame

1. Gather Your Materials

Gold leaf sheets (real or imitation)
Adhesive size (oil-based or water-based)
Soft brushes (natural hair is best)
Cotton gloves or lint-free cloth
Gesso (if bare wood)
Red or yellow bole (optional for warmth & depth)
Sealer (shellac or acrylic varnish)
Craft knife or gilder’s knife
Burnisher (agate stone, optional)

2. Prepare the Frame

Raw wood: Apply several coats of gesso, sanding between coats until smooth. For a traditional warm glow, add bole over the gesso.
Painted/finished wood: Sand lightly and seal with primer or shellac so the size adheres properly.
Wipe clean — dust or grease will prevent adhesion.

3. Apply the Adhesive Size

Brush on a thin, even coat of size where you want the gold.
Wait until it reaches tack:
Oil size = usually 1–3 hours (check product directions).
Water-based size = tacky in about 15–30 minutes.
Test with your knuckle: it should feel slightly sticky, not wet.

4. Lay the Gold Leaf

With a gilder’s tip or soft brush, pick up a sheet of gold leaf.
Place it carefully onto the tacky surface.
Overlap edges slightly — gaps can be filled with scraps.
Gently tap down with a soft brush or cotton ball.
Don’t worry if it looks patchy; touch-ups come later.

5. Burnish & Smooth

For water gilding: once fully dry, polish gently with an agate burnisher for a mirror finish.
For oil gilding: leave matte or just smooth with a soft cloth (oil size doesn’t allow high burnishing).

6. Seal & Protect

Brush on a thin coat of shellac, varnish, or protective sealer.
If you want an antique look, rub a dark glaze or wax into crevices, then wipe back the excess.

7. Final Touches

Use leftover leaf scraps to patch missed spots.
Brush gently to remove loose flakes.
Buff lightly with cotton cloth.